This past Thursday, I had the opportunity to sit with some of NY's "Elite" in the wine trade. Aubert de Villaine was on hand to discuss and sample the 2007 lineup of DRC wines. 30 people gathered in a conference room at the Carlysle Hotel, in what has become an annual tradition in these parts. As I look around, I always feel out of place. For starters, this year, I was the only male not wearing a jacket. Many are wine directors/sommeliers off to work after, so they get dressed for work before work. I gave up a suit when I left the legal world almost 10 years ago. Never looked back, although my closet is still filled with suits that get worn once per year, max.
Okay, enough background, onto the wines...
Aubert discussed the difficulties and confusion with the 2007 harvest. An abnormally hot April/May was just the beginning of a strange road that led to harvest at the beginning of September. Much of the fruit was rotted, and subsequently discarded. One thing I always enjoy about this tasting is that Aubert is a straight shooter. He may try to sugarcoat like any vigneron, but at the end of the day, you know how good the wines are before you taste them. Nevertheless, we still get to taste...
So, I went through and smelled all of the wines before tasting them. Then I tasted them through once and jotted notes. I then did a second round of tasting and the "notes" are a compilation...Just for the record, I am pro flavor!
1) 2007 Echezeaux: A slightly medicinal smell. Harsh in the mid palate. Decent finish, but not much fruit.
2) 2007 Grands Echezeaux: This is much richer. Nose shows a lot more berries. Still on the palate, a harsh taste. I think this wine has a great potential based upon the aromas, but, in the palate, it was just not there.
3) 2007 Romanee St. Vivant: A very bright color in my glass. The nose was muted. Very closed. Lots of structure in the wine. This appeared to be a favorite based on comments in the room. For me, it was one of the worst wines.
4) 2007 Richebourg: This had a very "DRC Richebourg" like aroma...earthy, mushrooms. Dense, "dark" color. I was into this nose. But the taste just did not follow. Decent wine, and maybe will get better.
5) 2007 La Tache: Very floral bouquet. Pretty wine. The most well rounded wine of the tasting. Needs time, but this clearly has the stuffing to be a great wine.
6) 2007 Romanee Conti: Initially, very muted nose. Then earthy, dirty nose. This is a very muscular, masculine wine. Very earthy, with a slight green streak, but very rich.
7) 2007 Montrachet: This wine is a baby. High acid and vastly different from what I remember in tasting 2004-2006 Montrachets. I suppose this is destined to be a classic, but I would not touch a btl for 10 years.
As a whole, this is the least impressive lineup of DRCs that I have tasted. Aubert said that the wines appear to be getting better, but he does not appear to high on these either. Nevertheless, what appears more depressing is how negatively he spoke of the 2008s, as the growing conditions were even worse in 2008 than they were in 2007. I am always honroed to get to attend these attendings. Unfortunately, I just cannot speak all that positively about these 2007s. These wines appear very young, and hopefully they will take on weight, fill out, and balance well, but I am not an expert with a crystal ball to say that that will happen.
Sunday, February 14, 2010
Friday, February 12, 2010
Tasting Notes from Dinner Last Night!
Went back to one of my local faves last night, Crabtree's Kittle House.
It was "bargain" night for all of us. So we searched the wine list for the best wine for not a lot of money.
Here is what we came up with...
1997 Ridge Monte Bello Chardonnay-Clearly showing its age on the nose and color, but I enjoyed this wine. Not a rich, show offy wine, but had some fruit still there. Fun to drink. $58 on the list.
1998 Domaine de Mordoree Lirac Cuvee Reines des Bois-Tired and over the hill, this was just a very simple, monolithic wine. Good example of how many critics tasting windows are just flat out absurd. This wine should have been drunk upon release and not much after that. I am sure it was great at one time. On this evening, pass. Interestingly enough, Robert Parker says to drink this one from 2001-2015 and even takes a step further with..."It is one of those rare Liracs that will age for 10-15 years." I don't think so! $33 on the wine list.
1999 Ch St Cosme Gigondas-I am biased. I love this producer. This wine was drinking beautifully last night. Spice, Black Pepper, deep dark fruits...what a lovely wine...great pairing for the Oxtail. $48 on the list!
It was "bargain" night for all of us. So we searched the wine list for the best wine for not a lot of money.
Here is what we came up with...
1997 Ridge Monte Bello Chardonnay-Clearly showing its age on the nose and color, but I enjoyed this wine. Not a rich, show offy wine, but had some fruit still there. Fun to drink. $58 on the list.
1998 Domaine de Mordoree Lirac Cuvee Reines des Bois-Tired and over the hill, this was just a very simple, monolithic wine. Good example of how many critics tasting windows are just flat out absurd. This wine should have been drunk upon release and not much after that. I am sure it was great at one time. On this evening, pass. Interestingly enough, Robert Parker says to drink this one from 2001-2015 and even takes a step further with..."It is one of those rare Liracs that will age for 10-15 years." I don't think so! $33 on the wine list.
1999 Ch St Cosme Gigondas-I am biased. I love this producer. This wine was drinking beautifully last night. Spice, Black Pepper, deep dark fruits...what a lovely wine...great pairing for the Oxtail. $48 on the list!
Tuesday, February 9, 2010
Monday Night Meatloaf-Part ???
Last night, I had the pleasure of attending a very special wine dinner featuring the winemakers and owners of some of the most prestigious estates in Burgundy. The dinner was at A Voce in the Time Warner Building (Columbus Circle for those non NYers reading).
First the food...With about 60 people in attendance, you could not ask for better food preparations. Whilst the water service was slow (did you note the use of 'whilst'?), everything else was great. 17 wines poured, a new glass for every wine, you do the math...Some highlights were the Funghi al Forno...these mushrooms were rockin. And the veal tenderloin to close out the meal was "tender" and then some. Great job in the kitchen!
Onto the alcohol, err, the wines...
First Course (served with Bay Scallops)
1) 2006 Christian Moreau Chablis Valmur: Our first btl was corked. Our second btl still had something wrong with it. I complained to Christian and he cried.
2) 2005 Ch de Chamirey Mercurey Blanc La Mission: This wine had a very strange nose and a very oily texture in the mouth. I am generally not a fan of Mercurey Blanc and this wine did nothing to convince me otherwise.
3) 2006 Ch Fuisse Pouilly Fuisse les Combettes: Wow, this wine was excellent. If anyone does not believe that the villages of Pouilly and Fuisse cannot make superb Chardonnay that can compete with the top villages, you need to drink more Ch Fuisse. Unfortunately, from a retailer standpoint, they are tough sells, but this wine was top notch.
Second Course (served with Fungi al Forno...Roasted trumpet royal mushrooms)
1) 2006 Ch Genot Boulanger Puligny Montrachet Les Mosroyes: This wine was hitting on all cylinders. A nice creamy texture. Showed very well.
2) 2006 Olivier Leflaive Chassgne Abbaye de Morgeot: This was nice. My notes say maybe too much oak, and a little obvious. By obvious, I meant "varietally correct." It was good, just did not wow me.
3) 2006 Ch de la Maltroye Chassagne Morgeot Vignes Blanches: I would love to try an older btl of this wine. The current releases are all excellent, but just too young. Painfully expensive as well
Third Course (Served with the largest piece of Pancetta I have ever seen on a plate)
1) Potel Aviron Moulin a Vent VV Cuvee Exceptionelle: Slightly maderized. Not my cup of tea...or wine!
2) 2006 Humbert Freres Gevrey Chambertin Poissenots: If memory serves, Geantet Pansiot is the only other producer of Poissenots these days. This is Humbert Freres finest wine. If you have never tried it, you need to. One of the stars of the night, this wine was a baby. Ripe, strawberry flavors with a great long finish. Well done!
3) 2005 Dominique Gallois Gevrey Chambertin Goulots: Gosh, I was hoping this was going to shine. For whatever reason, the wine came off as tired and very uninspired.
Fourth Course (served with Squab)
1) Ch de Chorey Beaune Teurons: Clearly out of the place in this flight, due to the style, this wine held its own. Funky, dirty and old school were some of my adjectives written down. I enjoyed this wine with the squab. Clearly a traditional producer (if you have never had anything from them) and quite good at it.
2) 2006 Jacques Prieur Corton Bressandes: In Burgundy circles, Prieur is known for its heavy dose of oak, and its heavy price...well this wine did not disappoint on either. A very masculine wine, this wine needs time, and then...who knows?
3) 2006 Alain Burguet Gevrey Chambertin Mes Favorites: Burguet takes his best parcels in Gevrey and produces this stuff each year. Before he sourced some Beze in 2004, this was the flagship wine, and to many, still is. The nose was very pretty, a nice flower bouquet. On the pallet, the wine was a little rough, however, based on my experience, I am not concerned about this wine. In a few years, this will be tasty, The stuffing was there.
4) 2006 Meo Camuzet Clos Vougeot: As usual, this wine was a beast. I am never sure where Meo's wines are headed, but I am always happy to sample them. This one will be quite nice...in 15 years.
Fifth Course (Veal Tenderloin)
1) 2006 Domaine des Perdrix NSG Aux Perdrix: Another one with pricing that could use adjusting, I found this wine to be a bit metallic.
2) 2006 Sylvain Cathiard NSG Murgers: I am really not sure that I have ever had a bad btl of wine from this producer. Big, rich and very "fleshy," this is an outstanding effort.
3) 2007 Lamarche Vosne Romanee Les Chaumes: Earlier in the day, I tasted about 6 Lamarche wines, and I thought the AC Vosne Romanee stood out. At dinner, this wine showed a bit too much sweetness for me. Nevertheless, this Domaine's quality is rising fast.
4) 2006 Rousseau Mazy Chambertin: Wowser! Just the right amount of sweetness, to go with the depth of fruit and tannins. Who knew this would show so well? I was happy to enjoy a second glass. Eric Rousseau announced that the Domaine purchased 0.40 hectares additionally in Chambertin for the 2009 vintage. Everyones allocation just doubled!
Thanks for reading!
First the food...With about 60 people in attendance, you could not ask for better food preparations. Whilst the water service was slow (did you note the use of 'whilst'?), everything else was great. 17 wines poured, a new glass for every wine, you do the math...Some highlights were the Funghi al Forno...these mushrooms were rockin. And the veal tenderloin to close out the meal was "tender" and then some. Great job in the kitchen!
Onto the alcohol, err, the wines...
First Course (served with Bay Scallops)
1) 2006 Christian Moreau Chablis Valmur: Our first btl was corked. Our second btl still had something wrong with it. I complained to Christian and he cried.
2) 2005 Ch de Chamirey Mercurey Blanc La Mission: This wine had a very strange nose and a very oily texture in the mouth. I am generally not a fan of Mercurey Blanc and this wine did nothing to convince me otherwise.
3) 2006 Ch Fuisse Pouilly Fuisse les Combettes: Wow, this wine was excellent. If anyone does not believe that the villages of Pouilly and Fuisse cannot make superb Chardonnay that can compete with the top villages, you need to drink more Ch Fuisse. Unfortunately, from a retailer standpoint, they are tough sells, but this wine was top notch.
Second Course (served with Fungi al Forno...Roasted trumpet royal mushrooms)
1) 2006 Ch Genot Boulanger Puligny Montrachet Les Mosroyes: This wine was hitting on all cylinders. A nice creamy texture. Showed very well.
2) 2006 Olivier Leflaive Chassgne Abbaye de Morgeot: This was nice. My notes say maybe too much oak, and a little obvious. By obvious, I meant "varietally correct." It was good, just did not wow me.
3) 2006 Ch de la Maltroye Chassagne Morgeot Vignes Blanches: I would love to try an older btl of this wine. The current releases are all excellent, but just too young. Painfully expensive as well
Third Course (Served with the largest piece of Pancetta I have ever seen on a plate)
1) Potel Aviron Moulin a Vent VV Cuvee Exceptionelle: Slightly maderized. Not my cup of tea...or wine!
2) 2006 Humbert Freres Gevrey Chambertin Poissenots: If memory serves, Geantet Pansiot is the only other producer of Poissenots these days. This is Humbert Freres finest wine. If you have never tried it, you need to. One of the stars of the night, this wine was a baby. Ripe, strawberry flavors with a great long finish. Well done!
3) 2005 Dominique Gallois Gevrey Chambertin Goulots: Gosh, I was hoping this was going to shine. For whatever reason, the wine came off as tired and very uninspired.
Fourth Course (served with Squab)
1) Ch de Chorey Beaune Teurons: Clearly out of the place in this flight, due to the style, this wine held its own. Funky, dirty and old school were some of my adjectives written down. I enjoyed this wine with the squab. Clearly a traditional producer (if you have never had anything from them) and quite good at it.
2) 2006 Jacques Prieur Corton Bressandes: In Burgundy circles, Prieur is known for its heavy dose of oak, and its heavy price...well this wine did not disappoint on either. A very masculine wine, this wine needs time, and then...who knows?
3) 2006 Alain Burguet Gevrey Chambertin Mes Favorites: Burguet takes his best parcels in Gevrey and produces this stuff each year. Before he sourced some Beze in 2004, this was the flagship wine, and to many, still is. The nose was very pretty, a nice flower bouquet. On the pallet, the wine was a little rough, however, based on my experience, I am not concerned about this wine. In a few years, this will be tasty, The stuffing was there.
4) 2006 Meo Camuzet Clos Vougeot: As usual, this wine was a beast. I am never sure where Meo's wines are headed, but I am always happy to sample them. This one will be quite nice...in 15 years.
Fifth Course (Veal Tenderloin)
1) 2006 Domaine des Perdrix NSG Aux Perdrix: Another one with pricing that could use adjusting, I found this wine to be a bit metallic.
2) 2006 Sylvain Cathiard NSG Murgers: I am really not sure that I have ever had a bad btl of wine from this producer. Big, rich and very "fleshy," this is an outstanding effort.
3) 2007 Lamarche Vosne Romanee Les Chaumes: Earlier in the day, I tasted about 6 Lamarche wines, and I thought the AC Vosne Romanee stood out. At dinner, this wine showed a bit too much sweetness for me. Nevertheless, this Domaine's quality is rising fast.
4) 2006 Rousseau Mazy Chambertin: Wowser! Just the right amount of sweetness, to go with the depth of fruit and tannins. Who knew this would show so well? I was happy to enjoy a second glass. Eric Rousseau announced that the Domaine purchased 0.40 hectares additionally in Chambertin for the 2009 vintage. Everyones allocation just doubled!
Thanks for reading!
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