Last night, 10 very passionate one wine drinkers got together for an evening of Old Rhones at Peter J.'s house. One got food poisoning, so that made it just 9 of us. Have no fear Keith, we still drank your Guigal after you left! Laurent brought no wine for a change, using the excuse that he is a poor Burgundy farmer.
Peter had a chef that did a tremendous job with the food. I am still trying to figure out the ravioli dish and how the egg got inside of it. Oh well, as little as I know about wine, I know less about food.
Onto the wines...
For starters, we did 2 bubblies...
1982 Salon-Man, this was a weird one. Upon first pour, this was oxidized. Only 5 minutes later, it was not. Smooth, sweet fruit, with little bubbles, this ended up being very tasty.
1996 Billecart Salmon Clos St. Hilaire- This is still much too young for me. Vibrant, and very crisp...I look forward to tasting this one down the line (Peter will have to open it though)!
Overall, the wines we had from the Rhone were excellent. Very few issues with one possible fake. As a whole, these wines stood the test of time!
First flight...
1) Blind...this was dark, rich, and minty, absolutely delicious...King Angry guessed 1970s Grange...the answer 1976 Penfolds Grange...(I am assuming Ray meant Penfolds, although he never did specify) ;)
2) Blind...for me this was a little watered down...finish was flat, I did not enjoy it...I guessed early '80s CDP...it was 1967 Mont Redon
3) Blind...I really enjoyed this wine...it had life, and a good spicey characteristic...very tasty stuff...I guessed early 90s Northern Rhone...it was 1971 Ch Fortia CDP...sign me up!
4) Not blind...1977 Chave Hermitage...one of my contributions...this had a very strange nose at first. Others liked it, I did not, after a few moments, it blew off. I actually went back to this wine hours later, and it was absolutely delicious!
Second Flight
1) 1983 Ch Beaucastel CDP...a good showing for the 1983 Beau on this night. It had good fruit...medium intensity...good pairing for the food.
2) 1989 Ch Beaucastel CDP...the 1983 overshadowed this one. Fortunately, it was not corked (as is the case with many 1989 Beaucastel CDPs).
3) 1989 Andre Brunel CDP Cuvee Centenaire...Not talked about much, but a few of us liked this wine and many others hated it (Ron complained of too much oak). It was clearly a pioneer of styles of new world CDP, but I thought it was very good, for many of the reasons that the "traditionalists" hated it.
Third Flight
1) 1989 Ch Rayas CDP...wow, this was a good wine. It would have been even better for me, if not for...
2) 1990 Ch Rayas CDP...this was absolutely stunning. Big, rich, layered with fruit, and a finish that went on and on. While some preferred the 1989 (which was really nice), this was one of my Wines of the Night!
3) 1989 Henri Bonneau CDP Cuvee Celestins...another wine with varying opinions. I found this wine to be harsh, and "too masculine." It was just not my style on this night. Especially after the silky smooth Rayas wines.
Fourth flight
1) 1989 Beaucastel CDP Hommage Jacques Perrin...I thought this flight was going to be historic, but I think the previous flight made it not so...nevertheless the 1989 Beaucastel Hommage was a very good wine, definitely softer than the 1990, which comes later. I can get into this wine.
2) 1990 Beaucastel CDP...a wine, that in the past, I have enjoyed immensely, and at one dinner, a couple of years back, showed nearly as well as the 1990 Hommage. On this night, though, this was a good wine, just not a great one.
3) 1990 Beaucastel CDP Hommage Jacques Perrin...darker in color than the 1989, this had less finesse and more muscle than the '89. I think this wine still has a long life ahead of it.
Fifth flight
1) 1989 Chave Hermitage...It was right about now when someone said, "victory for the 1989s tonight." Well, that is just opinion, but this was my WOTN (maybe a tie with 1990 Rayas)...another rich, intense wine that just had gobs and gobs of fruit coating my mouth. Man, I wish I had not just sold a mag of this last week!
2) 1989 Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle...this was was a bit austere and rather unpleasant...which surprised me, because generally 89 La Chapelle is a very good wine.
3) 1990 Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle...this is where it got interesting. I opened up most of the btls throughout the evening. This cork was gleaming white and clean...very strange, considering how moldy the 1989 was. The wine was more of a blueberry style (think high ratings from Jay Miller). No one really cared for the wine. The btl was etched with a number coding on the back. A rerelease from Jaboulet, perhaps? Could be, but clearly the cork was not original, and the bottle code left some doubt...and the wine sucked...makes you wonder...
4) 1989 Chapoutier Hermitage Pavillon...Another stunning btl of 1989 Chapoutier Pavillon for me. A couple of years ago, I had the pleasure of drinking a magnum of this stuff with everyone's hero, Robert Parker, and it was delic. A 750ml last night did not disappoint either. While I cannot stand his white wines, Chapoutier seems to have mastered certain reds.
Sixth Flight
1) 1990 Guigal Cote Cotie La Mouline...something was not correct with this btl...a shame, as it should have been amazing stuff...but it just never came together.
2) 1990 Guigal Cote Rotie La Turque...What more can you say about this one but, WOW! In case, there was any doubt about the La Mouline being off, the La Turque confirmed it. This had everything going on...the funk, the fruit, the acidity, I loved this wine...I think I suffered from a little palate fatigue at the end of the meal, which caused me to not really appreciate what we had here!
Thank you to Peter for his generous hospitality, and everyone else who brought wine, except for Laurent, who, as usual, contributed nothing and compared everything to 1966 Drouhin Musigny!
Just kidding...Laurent!
Sixth Flight
1)
Tuesday, December 1, 2009
Wednesday, November 11, 2009
Dinner at Veritas last night-A great CDP!
Had dinner at Veritas last night, where the food was excellent, service was great, and the wine is 25% off till the end of the year.
I ordered a btl of 2003 Aubert Chardonnay Quarry Vineyard. This was probably the worst btl of Aubert Chardonnay that I have ever had. Over oaked, and maybe too much sulfur or something, this was a very strange wine. Over two hours, the wine calmed down (we did decant it), but it never lived up to the billing.
A wine that did live up to its hype was 1998 Domaine de la Mordoree CDP Reine des Bois. This wine was off the charts. Even if I had never tasted it, the smell screamed amazing, but the palate was just as awesome. I wish I had a magnum, rather than just just a 750ml. Holy shit, I think I can still taste the wine today.
I ordered a btl of 2003 Aubert Chardonnay Quarry Vineyard. This was probably the worst btl of Aubert Chardonnay that I have ever had. Over oaked, and maybe too much sulfur or something, this was a very strange wine. Over two hours, the wine calmed down (we did decant it), but it never lived up to the billing.
A wine that did live up to its hype was 1998 Domaine de la Mordoree CDP Reine des Bois. This wine was off the charts. Even if I had never tasted it, the smell screamed amazing, but the palate was just as awesome. I wish I had a magnum, rather than just just a 750ml. Holy shit, I think I can still taste the wine today.
Monday, November 9, 2009
Dinner in Newport, RI-The best $30, three course meal ever?
Went up to Newport, RI for one night this past weekend. It was restaurant week, so I had low expectations. I made a reservation at Spark for Saturday evening. It came highly recommended amongst internet chatter.
I called for a rezzie. The answering machine (where you can leave a message) asks you to call the owner's cell phone, where you leave another message. Shortly thereafter, I got a phone call back. I got a reservation, but they told me it was restaurant week. Simply put, restaurant week in New York SUCKS. Restaurants participate with a half assed menu, as a way to get unsuspecting souls in the door. Once there, the menu is limited, and none of the "good" stuff is offered. So, naturally, I asked if the regular menu would be offered. She told me no, but that I could look up the menu for restaurant week online.
This is the menu that I stared at...
http://www.gonewportrestaurantweek.com/PDFs/Restaurants/52.pdf
Wow, it almost wanted me to pay $60 and order twice as many things!
One cool thing about Spark is that it is BYO. They charge $2.50 per person for the luxury of doing so. While the man next to us brought a pint of Dewar's, I opted to bring a half btl of 2003 Rousseau Gevrey Chambertin. In addition, Spark, as per their website, tells its future patrons, that they can order a btl of vino from Vicker's Wines, a Newport staple, and have it delivered, just in case you forget to bring something. Well, I knew Vicker's has a decent selection of older stuff, so I figured I would try out this "delivery method." I called Vicker's at 7 pm, told them to deliver a btl of 1995 Guigal Ch D'Ampuis ($74.95 price) for my 8 pm reservation. Well, my btl was at the restaurant waiting for me when I arrived at 8 pm.
The Rousseau was an easy "suck down" wine. Simple, yet delicious, I might have been able to finish off a magnum on my own. The fruit was still all there, this was an outstanding btl of "inexpensive" 2003 red Burgundy.
The Guigal was, as you would expect it, funky. Near pristine condition, I tasted it and opted not to decant it. I think that was the right decision. As, by the end of the meal (2 hours) the wine was not as good as it was during the middle of the meal. Still, a great effort. It went perfect with my Cassoulet.
They brought out some bread to start. It was warm focaccia. An interesting choice. Not crazy about it, but the honey butter that went with it was awesome.
For a starter, wifee did the Pea soup. They insisted it was just a touch of cream. It looked more like a milk shake upon arrival. She liked it. I am not a pea soup fan, so I defer to the experts.
Our server recommended the Sweetbreads over the Frog's Legs to start. Who am I to argue? Possibly the "flakiest" sweetbreads I have tasted, it came with Kalamatta Olives, Roasted tomatoes (that were to die for) and capers. It all just worked. A high recommendation from me.
My wife did the filet steak and I did the Cassoulet for dinner. The steak came with their own version of Cowboy ketchup. They added chipotle and bbq sauce to the ketchup. The best part of her dish was the green beans. Very fresh, just crisp enough, with salt, pepper, olive oil and garlic. The steak was very good as well.
My cassoulet was good as well, if you go for good Cassoulet.
For dessert, we nibbled on the Chocolate Peanut Butter Spring Rolls and the Warm Tart of Apples. The Spring Rolls were very rich. The tart utilized cheddar and bacon in it. Not sure that that worked for us, but we had no room for dessert anyways.
Our bill, before tip, was $70!!! Astonishing, for first class food! Kudos to Spark!
I called for a rezzie. The answering machine (where you can leave a message) asks you to call the owner's cell phone, where you leave another message. Shortly thereafter, I got a phone call back. I got a reservation, but they told me it was restaurant week. Simply put, restaurant week in New York SUCKS. Restaurants participate with a half assed menu, as a way to get unsuspecting souls in the door. Once there, the menu is limited, and none of the "good" stuff is offered. So, naturally, I asked if the regular menu would be offered. She told me no, but that I could look up the menu for restaurant week online.
This is the menu that I stared at...
http://www.gonewportrestaurantweek.com/PDFs/Restaurants/52.pdf
Wow, it almost wanted me to pay $60 and order twice as many things!
One cool thing about Spark is that it is BYO. They charge $2.50 per person for the luxury of doing so. While the man next to us brought a pint of Dewar's, I opted to bring a half btl of 2003 Rousseau Gevrey Chambertin. In addition, Spark, as per their website, tells its future patrons, that they can order a btl of vino from Vicker's Wines, a Newport staple, and have it delivered, just in case you forget to bring something. Well, I knew Vicker's has a decent selection of older stuff, so I figured I would try out this "delivery method." I called Vicker's at 7 pm, told them to deliver a btl of 1995 Guigal Ch D'Ampuis ($74.95 price) for my 8 pm reservation. Well, my btl was at the restaurant waiting for me when I arrived at 8 pm.
The Rousseau was an easy "suck down" wine. Simple, yet delicious, I might have been able to finish off a magnum on my own. The fruit was still all there, this was an outstanding btl of "inexpensive" 2003 red Burgundy.
The Guigal was, as you would expect it, funky. Near pristine condition, I tasted it and opted not to decant it. I think that was the right decision. As, by the end of the meal (2 hours) the wine was not as good as it was during the middle of the meal. Still, a great effort. It went perfect with my Cassoulet.
They brought out some bread to start. It was warm focaccia. An interesting choice. Not crazy about it, but the honey butter that went with it was awesome.
For a starter, wifee did the Pea soup. They insisted it was just a touch of cream. It looked more like a milk shake upon arrival. She liked it. I am not a pea soup fan, so I defer to the experts.
Our server recommended the Sweetbreads over the Frog's Legs to start. Who am I to argue? Possibly the "flakiest" sweetbreads I have tasted, it came with Kalamatta Olives, Roasted tomatoes (that were to die for) and capers. It all just worked. A high recommendation from me.
My wife did the filet steak and I did the Cassoulet for dinner. The steak came with their own version of Cowboy ketchup. They added chipotle and bbq sauce to the ketchup. The best part of her dish was the green beans. Very fresh, just crisp enough, with salt, pepper, olive oil and garlic. The steak was very good as well.
My cassoulet was good as well, if you go for good Cassoulet.
For dessert, we nibbled on the Chocolate Peanut Butter Spring Rolls and the Warm Tart of Apples. The Spring Rolls were very rich. The tart utilized cheddar and bacon in it. Not sure that that worked for us, but we had no room for dessert anyways.
Our bill, before tip, was $70!!! Astonishing, for first class food! Kudos to Spark!
Wednesday, November 4, 2009
Monday Night Meatloaf, Part II!
This past Monday evening, 7 "Burgheads" found their way to Apiary, Scott Bryan's new haunt on the Lower East Side of Manhattan (well, just south of Union Square to be exact). A few notes on the restaurant. The food is excellent. My second time there, and the pork chop is off the hook. This time, I started with scallops and we all did a half portion of risotto. All excellent. Mondays offer free corkage. We all paid $80, which seemed to include a very healthy gratuity. Negatives on this night was the service. Glassware was hard to come by, and water service was slow. Still, I would go back to the restaurant. I would almost prefer to pay corkage on another evening, as long as a dozen wines are not being opened.
Onto the wines...
1) 1990 Henriot Cuvee Enchanteleurs (Magnum): KA must find it difficult to go without bubbles, so he brought this one. I liked it a lot. Very crisp and extremely youthful, I would like to see this evolve for another decade...or two.
2) 2000 Drouhin Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc: This was served blind and compliments of David. I find this wine painfully young. Lots of acid. Needed more air time.
3) 2002 Leflaive Batard Montrachet: Not a good sign when your WOTN comes so early, but this wine was outstanding! I cannot really say much more than, WOW! Bill, you da man! Or, as Robert Kenney once said of Jay S. Miller, "You're my boy, blue!"
4) Louis Jadot Chassagne Montrachet Abbaye Morgeot: Others said this was too young. I am not a buyer. I am generally a fan of Jadot wines, but this wine is a pass for me. The fruit was just out of balance with the acid. Never came around.
5) 1988 Ponsot Clos St Denis: Thank you, David. This wine was very good. Probably the best nose of the evening. I would not age it any longer, as my best sips were my first sips. Still, quite impressive given the vintage.
6) 1990 Jacky Truchot Charmes Chambertin: Someone referred to this as "cheesy." I wanted to like this wine, but although it got better as the night carried on, it was just never all that enjoyable. KA brought it, as he really wants to become a wine geek. Looks like he will have to wait to be inducted into that hall of fame. I think he hated more than anyone at the table.
7) 1990 Louis Jadot Ruchottes Chambertin: Ian brought a winner as well. This was quite a nice wine. When I heard the price it is selling for, I may not be a buyer, but still a nice drink.
8) 1996 Louis Remy Chambertin: The wine was flat and ininteresting. Lifeless would give it too much credit. If you own this, sorry.
9) 1996 Robert Arnoux Romanee St. Vivant: It was not talked about much, but I quite liked this wine. Pretty juicy on the palate. It showed pretty well.
10) 1995 Louis Jadot Clos Vougeot: No shock that Leo brought Jadot. Does he own anything else? As the night went on, this wine got better and better and better. I decided the order and put this towards the back of the pack, as I thought it might need time. Good wine, in a difficult vintage.
11) 1996 Dujac Bonnes Mares. My contribution, dbl decanted by a member of my staff. Upon opening at arrival at the restaurant, I announced (shamefully) that the wine was corked. A couple of the others disagreed. So we poured it out. We poured it a couple of hours later and KA said it was corked. Doh!
12) I could not go without contributing a red wine, so I ordered a 2001 Gaja Sperss, and got it decanted as quickly as possible. I really enjoyed this wine. Clearly not an "elegant" Nebbiolo, but it sure was tasty. Most at the table really liked it and I was "saved."
Good food, good wine, and a fun group of people (except for Leo). Looking forward to the next dinner!
Onto the wines...
1) 1990 Henriot Cuvee Enchanteleurs (Magnum): KA must find it difficult to go without bubbles, so he brought this one. I liked it a lot. Very crisp and extremely youthful, I would like to see this evolve for another decade...or two.
2) 2000 Drouhin Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc: This was served blind and compliments of David. I find this wine painfully young. Lots of acid. Needed more air time.
3) 2002 Leflaive Batard Montrachet: Not a good sign when your WOTN comes so early, but this wine was outstanding! I cannot really say much more than, WOW! Bill, you da man! Or, as Robert Kenney once said of Jay S. Miller, "You're my boy, blue!"
4) Louis Jadot Chassagne Montrachet Abbaye Morgeot: Others said this was too young. I am not a buyer. I am generally a fan of Jadot wines, but this wine is a pass for me. The fruit was just out of balance with the acid. Never came around.
5) 1988 Ponsot Clos St Denis: Thank you, David. This wine was very good. Probably the best nose of the evening. I would not age it any longer, as my best sips were my first sips. Still, quite impressive given the vintage.
6) 1990 Jacky Truchot Charmes Chambertin: Someone referred to this as "cheesy." I wanted to like this wine, but although it got better as the night carried on, it was just never all that enjoyable. KA brought it, as he really wants to become a wine geek. Looks like he will have to wait to be inducted into that hall of fame. I think he hated more than anyone at the table.
7) 1990 Louis Jadot Ruchottes Chambertin: Ian brought a winner as well. This was quite a nice wine. When I heard the price it is selling for, I may not be a buyer, but still a nice drink.
8) 1996 Louis Remy Chambertin: The wine was flat and ininteresting. Lifeless would give it too much credit. If you own this, sorry.
9) 1996 Robert Arnoux Romanee St. Vivant: It was not talked about much, but I quite liked this wine. Pretty juicy on the palate. It showed pretty well.
10) 1995 Louis Jadot Clos Vougeot: No shock that Leo brought Jadot. Does he own anything else? As the night went on, this wine got better and better and better. I decided the order and put this towards the back of the pack, as I thought it might need time. Good wine, in a difficult vintage.
11) 1996 Dujac Bonnes Mares. My contribution, dbl decanted by a member of my staff. Upon opening at arrival at the restaurant, I announced (shamefully) that the wine was corked. A couple of the others disagreed. So we poured it out. We poured it a couple of hours later and KA said it was corked. Doh!
12) I could not go without contributing a red wine, so I ordered a 2001 Gaja Sperss, and got it decanted as quickly as possible. I really enjoyed this wine. Clearly not an "elegant" Nebbiolo, but it sure was tasty. Most at the table really liked it and I was "saved."
Good food, good wine, and a fun group of people (except for Leo). Looking forward to the next dinner!
Tuesday, October 27, 2009
Monday night "MEATLOAF" (Musigny, Montrachet and Petrus)
Dinner with a client last night took me to La Panetiere in Rye. La Panetiere is one of my favorite restaurants in the area. The mansion is beautiful. The service is impeccable and the food is terrific. Last night was no exception. I was glad to see some other diners on a Monday evening, as well. Good sign for the economy. It should be noted that La Panetiere no longer requires men to wear jackets, as it used to.
Food wise, we both started with the escargot, which was topped with some toasted crushed nuts. Previous to that, the amuse was fish soup. Not a favorite for me A method I had never seen before, but it was delicious. After the snails, the restaurant brought us a terrine of Foie Gras (made up for the fish soup, for me). I never turn down Foie Gras. one of the things that makes La Panetiere's Foie Gras so tasty is the toasted brioche bread served with it.
For an entree, I did the veal cheeks and sweetbread. Yes, heading for the heart attack (I had no idea we were getting foie gras). The mushrooms that accompanied my entree were delightful.
We finished with cheese (with the Petrus) and the equivalent of a baked apple for dessert. I think they gave us a pound of cheese per person...
Onto the wines...
2006 Domaine Baron Thenard Montrachet: I double decanted this about 90 minutes before the meal. Should have done it earlier. Thenard is an estate in Givry that has been around for a couple hundred years, typically selling off their fruit annually. The Montrachet goes to Remoissenet, historically. 2006 is the first vintage that they have produced enough, on their own, to be imported into the United States. This wine was really singing, after about 30 minutes in the glass. The acidity mellowed out, and honey/fruit flavors exploded. My client commented how easy to drink it was, and meant it as a positive. We had no problem polishing off the bottle.
1964 Faiveley Musigny: This is a bottle of wine that I have been eyeing for quite a bit on La Panetiere's wine list. And when you are having dinner with a great client, it seems like as good a time as any, to pop one. The first btl brought over had a slightly lower fill than I would have liked, so they ended up bringing up another btl that looked much better. The btl was opened and sat, recorked, as we finished off the Montrachet. Then, the first glasses were poured and the aromas poured out of the glass. Wow, you knew this going to be good. We actually took the cork out of the btl for a bit, to let the wine breathe a little more, as we both agreed, the wine could open up even more. This wine was a pleasure to drink. Soft and silky, this wine danced around your mouth. Fairly rich, and intense (considering the vintage). Truth be told, I let the last glass of this sit in my glass and did fade and become austere as the fruit dried out. The bottle had been open for an hour at that point. If we had dinner for 4, we would have never seen the wine fizzle out, as it all would have been consumed quicker. Nevertheless, an outstanding effort, and happy to have had the opportunity to drink it.
1990 Ch Petrus: My client was insistent on ordering something after the Faiveley. I said it was very unnecessary. He looked over the list and talked about 1926 Ausone or 1929 Cos. I excused myself to the bathroom, for a brief moment. Upon my return, he had opted for 1990 Petrus. He said he could not resist. Who was I to argue? This wine was a baby. My client mentioned that it was almost California Cabernet like in style. That could be, but for 20 year old wine, the youthfulness really shocked me. 1992 Grange last week was youthful but very drinkable. 1990 Petrus, in my opinion, needs to sit down for another decade. We decanted the btl and sat with it for an hour. It just never really opened up. You could tell that the fruit was there and the nose was getting more enjoyable, but this was like killing a baby, only the baby was 19 years old. Who would have thought?
Food wise, we both started with the escargot, which was topped with some toasted crushed nuts. Previous to that, the amuse was fish soup. Not a favorite for me A method I had never seen before, but it was delicious. After the snails, the restaurant brought us a terrine of Foie Gras (made up for the fish soup, for me). I never turn down Foie Gras. one of the things that makes La Panetiere's Foie Gras so tasty is the toasted brioche bread served with it.
For an entree, I did the veal cheeks and sweetbread. Yes, heading for the heart attack (I had no idea we were getting foie gras). The mushrooms that accompanied my entree were delightful.
We finished with cheese (with the Petrus) and the equivalent of a baked apple for dessert. I think they gave us a pound of cheese per person...
Onto the wines...
2006 Domaine Baron Thenard Montrachet: I double decanted this about 90 minutes before the meal. Should have done it earlier. Thenard is an estate in Givry that has been around for a couple hundred years, typically selling off their fruit annually. The Montrachet goes to Remoissenet, historically. 2006 is the first vintage that they have produced enough, on their own, to be imported into the United States. This wine was really singing, after about 30 minutes in the glass. The acidity mellowed out, and honey/fruit flavors exploded. My client commented how easy to drink it was, and meant it as a positive. We had no problem polishing off the bottle.
1964 Faiveley Musigny: This is a bottle of wine that I have been eyeing for quite a bit on La Panetiere's wine list. And when you are having dinner with a great client, it seems like as good a time as any, to pop one. The first btl brought over had a slightly lower fill than I would have liked, so they ended up bringing up another btl that looked much better. The btl was opened and sat, recorked, as we finished off the Montrachet. Then, the first glasses were poured and the aromas poured out of the glass. Wow, you knew this going to be good. We actually took the cork out of the btl for a bit, to let the wine breathe a little more, as we both agreed, the wine could open up even more. This wine was a pleasure to drink. Soft and silky, this wine danced around your mouth. Fairly rich, and intense (considering the vintage). Truth be told, I let the last glass of this sit in my glass and did fade and become austere as the fruit dried out. The bottle had been open for an hour at that point. If we had dinner for 4, we would have never seen the wine fizzle out, as it all would have been consumed quicker. Nevertheless, an outstanding effort, and happy to have had the opportunity to drink it.
1990 Ch Petrus: My client was insistent on ordering something after the Faiveley. I said it was very unnecessary. He looked over the list and talked about 1926 Ausone or 1929 Cos. I excused myself to the bathroom, for a brief moment. Upon my return, he had opted for 1990 Petrus. He said he could not resist. Who was I to argue? This wine was a baby. My client mentioned that it was almost California Cabernet like in style. That could be, but for 20 year old wine, the youthfulness really shocked me. 1992 Grange last week was youthful but very drinkable. 1990 Petrus, in my opinion, needs to sit down for another decade. We decanted the btl and sat with it for an hour. It just never really opened up. You could tell that the fruit was there and the nose was getting more enjoyable, but this was like killing a baby, only the baby was 19 years old. Who would have thought?
Friday, October 23, 2009
Your Wine Spectator Wine Experience Cheat Sheet
I went to the zoo, also known at the Wine Spectator Wine Experience last night. Truthfully, it was not too bad. I recommend going to the 5th floor first, followed by the 6th floor. The 5th floor got much warmer later in the evening as it got more crowded, so do the opposite of the herd. I started on the 6th floor, and ended up missing a few gems on the 5th Floor, like 2003 Lafite (which I heard did not show well), and 2006 Sassicaia. I think Opus went quickly as well.
I skipped most of the white wines, all of Champagne and all dessert wines. It is just too much to do in one night. I did get a nasty look from a woman as I spit some wine into a spit bucket. Then she turned to her husband, or pimp, or her "Steve Phillips" (not sure who he was) and said, "Look, that man just spit his wine!"
For ease, I will tell you that, as usual, the lineup was star studded. I tried to talk very little to people, in order to cover as much ground as possible. Since I hate most people, it worked pretty well.
3 categories for you...1) Must tastes (wines I loved) 2) Indifferent (wines that did not suck) 3) Avoids (wines that sucked)...obviously my opinions only, and if you would like more in depth analysis, I can try to provide it, if you contact me...
Must Tastes
2007 Achaval Ferrer Bella Vista
2007 Alto Moncayo
2007 Vieux Telegraphe
2006 Bouchard Beaune Greves Vigne l'Enfant
2006 Canon la Gaffeliere
2005 Carter Merlot Truchard Vyd
2004 Casanova di Neri Brunello Cerretalto
2006 Chryseia
2005 Aldo Conterno Barolo Bussia
2005 DeLille Cabernet Grand Ciel
2006 Dominus
2006 Felsina Fontalloro
2005 Ch LaFleur Petrus
2006 Fontodi Flaccianello
2006 Paul Hobbs Cabernet Beckstoffer To Kalon
2005 Cliff Lede Poetry
2006 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Coopersmith
2006 Peter Michael Les Pavots
2000 Ch Montrose
2005 Torre Muga
2004 La Nerthe CDP Cuvee Cadettes
2006 Ornellaia
2004 Pacenti Brunello
2007 L'ermita
2006 Petrolo Galatrona
2003 Pride Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (book says 2005, but I think it was 2003)
2006 Quintessa
2004 Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne
2006 Schrader Cabernet Old Sparky (out of magnum)
2004 Sierra Cantabria El Bosque
2005 Torbreck Run Rig
2006 Two Hands Ares
2004 Vall Llach
2005 Vietti Barolo Lazzarito
Indifferent
2007 AP Vin Pinot Noir Rosellas
2006 Almaviva
2006 Castello di Ama Chianti Bellavista
2006 Angelus
2006 Guado al Tasso
2007 Beaucastel CDP
2005 Bond Vecina
2005 Pio Cesare Barolo
2005 Clarendon Hills Syrah Hickinbotham
2003 Ch Clerc Milon
2006 Craggy Range Sophia
2004 Diamond Creek Volcanic Hill
2006 Drouhin Chassagne Marquis de Laguiche
2006 Ducru Beaucaillou
2005 Elderton Command
2007 Faiveley Latricieres Chambertin
2006 Foley Claret
2006 Fonterutoli Siepi
2006 Fournier Alfa Crux
2004 Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino
2006 Gagliole
2005 Harlan Estate
2004 Heitz Martha's
2006 Louis Jadot Chassagne Montrachet Morgeot Clos de la Chapelle
2005 Ch Lagrange
2000 Ch Leoville Barton
2007 Loring Pinot Noir Aubaine
2005 Ch Lynch Bages
2004 Masseto
2003 La Mission Haut Brion
2006 Mondavi Cab Reserve
2006 La Mondotte
2004 Ch Pontet Canet
2006 Saffredi
2006 Ramey Cabernet Annum
2005 Shafer Cabernet Hillside Select
2006 Snowden Cabernet Reserve
2006 Tardieu Laurent CDP Speciale
2007 Testamatta
2007 Vision Pinot Noir Coster Vyd
Avoids
2004 Altesino Brunello Montosoli
2006 David Arthur Elevation 1147
2005 Chapoutier Hermitage Sizeranne
2003 Ch Mouton Rothschild
1995 Ch Latour
2006 Dominio del Plata Nosotros
2005 Etude Cabernet Sauvignon
2003 Ch Haut Brion
2006 Mugnier NSG Clos de la Marechale (book says 2007, but I know I tasted 2006)
2004 Gaja Sperss
2006 Termanthia
2006 Penfolds RWT
2006 Ch Pichon Lalande
1989 Ridge Monte Bello
2004 Rosemount Balmoral Syrah
2006 Staglin Cabernet
2006 Tua Rita Guisto di Notri
2004 Valdicava Brunello
2006 Ch Vieux Ch Certan
2004 Yalumba Signature Cab Shiraz
94 wines on the list, by my count, so have a ball!
Some producers had their wine on ice, which turned out to be a very good idea!
I skipped most of the white wines, all of Champagne and all dessert wines. It is just too much to do in one night. I did get a nasty look from a woman as I spit some wine into a spit bucket. Then she turned to her husband, or pimp, or her "Steve Phillips" (not sure who he was) and said, "Look, that man just spit his wine!"
For ease, I will tell you that, as usual, the lineup was star studded. I tried to talk very little to people, in order to cover as much ground as possible. Since I hate most people, it worked pretty well.
3 categories for you...1) Must tastes (wines I loved) 2) Indifferent (wines that did not suck) 3) Avoids (wines that sucked)...obviously my opinions only, and if you would like more in depth analysis, I can try to provide it, if you contact me...
Must Tastes
2007 Achaval Ferrer Bella Vista
2007 Alto Moncayo
2007 Vieux Telegraphe
2006 Bouchard Beaune Greves Vigne l'Enfant
2006 Canon la Gaffeliere
2005 Carter Merlot Truchard Vyd
2004 Casanova di Neri Brunello Cerretalto
2006 Chryseia
2005 Aldo Conterno Barolo Bussia
2005 DeLille Cabernet Grand Ciel
2006 Dominus
2006 Felsina Fontalloro
2005 Ch LaFleur Petrus
2006 Fontodi Flaccianello
2006 Paul Hobbs Cabernet Beckstoffer To Kalon
2005 Cliff Lede Poetry
2006 Merry Edwards Pinot Noir Coopersmith
2006 Peter Michael Les Pavots
2000 Ch Montrose
2005 Torre Muga
2004 La Nerthe CDP Cuvee Cadettes
2006 Ornellaia
2004 Pacenti Brunello
2007 L'ermita
2006 Petrolo Galatrona
2003 Pride Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (book says 2005, but I think it was 2003)
2006 Quintessa
2004 Sandrone Barolo Le Vigne
2006 Schrader Cabernet Old Sparky (out of magnum)
2004 Sierra Cantabria El Bosque
2005 Torbreck Run Rig
2006 Two Hands Ares
2004 Vall Llach
2005 Vietti Barolo Lazzarito
Indifferent
2007 AP Vin Pinot Noir Rosellas
2006 Almaviva
2006 Castello di Ama Chianti Bellavista
2006 Angelus
2006 Guado al Tasso
2007 Beaucastel CDP
2005 Bond Vecina
2005 Pio Cesare Barolo
2005 Clarendon Hills Syrah Hickinbotham
2003 Ch Clerc Milon
2006 Craggy Range Sophia
2004 Diamond Creek Volcanic Hill
2006 Drouhin Chassagne Marquis de Laguiche
2006 Ducru Beaucaillou
2005 Elderton Command
2007 Faiveley Latricieres Chambertin
2006 Foley Claret
2006 Fonterutoli Siepi
2006 Fournier Alfa Crux
2004 Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino
2006 Gagliole
2005 Harlan Estate
2004 Heitz Martha's
2006 Louis Jadot Chassagne Montrachet Morgeot Clos de la Chapelle
2005 Ch Lagrange
2000 Ch Leoville Barton
2007 Loring Pinot Noir Aubaine
2005 Ch Lynch Bages
2004 Masseto
2003 La Mission Haut Brion
2006 Mondavi Cab Reserve
2006 La Mondotte
2004 Ch Pontet Canet
2006 Saffredi
2006 Ramey Cabernet Annum
2005 Shafer Cabernet Hillside Select
2006 Snowden Cabernet Reserve
2006 Tardieu Laurent CDP Speciale
2007 Testamatta
2007 Vision Pinot Noir Coster Vyd
Avoids
2004 Altesino Brunello Montosoli
2006 David Arthur Elevation 1147
2005 Chapoutier Hermitage Sizeranne
2003 Ch Mouton Rothschild
1995 Ch Latour
2006 Dominio del Plata Nosotros
2005 Etude Cabernet Sauvignon
2003 Ch Haut Brion
2006 Mugnier NSG Clos de la Marechale (book says 2007, but I know I tasted 2006)
2004 Gaja Sperss
2006 Termanthia
2006 Penfolds RWT
2006 Ch Pichon Lalande
1989 Ridge Monte Bello
2004 Rosemount Balmoral Syrah
2006 Staglin Cabernet
2006 Tua Rita Guisto di Notri
2004 Valdicava Brunello
2006 Ch Vieux Ch Certan
2004 Yalumba Signature Cab Shiraz
94 wines on the list, by my count, so have a ball!
Some producers had their wine on ice, which turned out to be a very good idea!
Wednesday, October 21, 2009
Eating and Drinking in Miami!
I always say, "It is a tough job, but somebody has to do with it." It is with that credo, that I embarked on my trip to Miami, last week. I enjoy planning trips around New York Jets away games, and nothing beats a Monday night Jets/Dolphins game, except when the Jets lose, which they did, in thrilling, last second fashion. But, as a Jet fan, we have come to expect such devastation!
Onto the meals...
First lunch was Monday...went to a local Italian trattoria that my client frequents. I brought just one wine to this one.
2006 Domaine Barroche Chateauneuf du Pape Pure: One of the new stars emerging in CDP, this old vine, 100% Grenache is made by Julien Barroche, a truly gifted young man. This wine was a baby, but absolutely stunning. Big, bruising and powerful, I may not touch another bottle for a few years. Nevertheless, I did enjoy it.
For Tuesday's lunch, I was at the Ritz in Coconut Grove. This time, the client was insistent on bringing the juice, and how could I argue. The guys loves old Alsatian stuff.
1989 Trimbach Riesling Cuvee Emile VT: 20 years old and you would have never guessed. Cuvee Emile is a bargain in the marketplace. Still a little acid to maintain the freshness and balance out the sweetness, but I could drink this everyday of my life.
Tuesday's dinner was at Chop's Lobster Bar in Boca Raton. Your kinda typical BIG steakhouse, the food was excellent. Seafood was fresh, steaks were very good and their 'signature' side was mashed corn. Never had it before, but it was delicious. I would love to get the recipe.
1998 Schramsberg J Schram Rose: This was really good. Close your eyes, and this is a delicious food pairing wine, beyond your typical bubbly pairings. This was soft and full bodied. The richness is what I really enjoyed. Not sure about aging potential, but very tasty now.
1996 Zind Humbrecht Gewurztraminer Hengst: I was supposed to bring this to lunch, but my wine case had not arrived at the hotel yet, so I pushed it back for dinner. A fun wine. Olivier is a great winemaker. The table seemed to enjoy this more than me, which always makes me happy, as customers will buy it. Nevertheless, I did like it. Not something I would hold pass another 18 months, but a great pair for the oysters, clams and shrimp we enjoyed.
1996 Chave Hermitage: I was not sure what to expect of this wine, but, as usual Jean Louis delivered. Good QPR? Maybe not. But for an "off"vintage, this wine showed very well. Still lots of fruit, cherry flavors, and probably good for another few years.
2005 Roy Estate Red: I hate to say it, but this wine put the Chave to shame, for me. Shirley and Charles Roy hired Philippe Melka to make their wine, and they picked a winner. These wines get better and better every year. It has no yet achieved cult status to many (although they have a huge fan in Robert Parker), and that is a shame, as these wines are absolutely stunning Cabernet blends from Napa. I would put it up against others two and three times the price. Go out and get some of this stuff!
Lunch on Wednesday was in Downtown Miami at Fratelli Lyon. While the food was pretty good, the service was absolutely atrocious. I felt like they were understaffed. In addition, the A/C was barely on. Nothing worse than seeing your waiter sweating up a storm over your food.
2007 Forman Chardonnay: I prefer Rick's Chardonnay over his Cabernet, in recent releases. This wine was absolutely delicious. A touch oak and acid leads me to believe this one is good for a few years, but I popped and poured, and it was that good. Rich, ripe, Chardonnay grape. This btl was finished off in a hurry.
1995 Petrolo Galatrona: I though this was an off btl, so I corked it. One of my clients thought it was okay, so she took it home with her.
1998 Fontodi Flaccianello: Fratelli Lyon had a pretty cool wine list and this looked very appealing (@ $120) so I ordered it. Decanted and stunning. Fontodi makes very long lived wines. This will go another 10 years, I suspect. Rich, deep, sweet fruit, this seemed to be in a perfect drinking window. While I think it will hold for another decade, with a quick decant, no reason to.
Dinner on Wednesday night was back in Miami, at Michael's Genuine. A funky menu that has 4 levels of food sizes...small, medium, large and xl. 5 of us for dinner, we all order 2 things on our own (I did 2 mediums) and we were told to get one XL, a whole roasted chicken that takes an hour to cook. My prawns were excellent, as was my pork belly. Chicken was good, although you had to make sure to get a little au jus with it, as it was a little dry for me. Not too dry, but just a little. The brussel sprouts and potato sides were great as well. Service was excellent. I highly recommend this joint.
And the wines...
1996 Henriot: The irony is that I am pretty sure that I enjoyed the Schramsberg more the previous evening. This was good, and painfully young to be consumed. Very crisp and clean, I would like to revisit this in 5 years.
2004 Christian Moreau Chablis Vaudesir: This showed very well. Not my favorite vineyard from Moreau (Clos des Hospices and Valmur are generally off the hook), this wine was still pretty darn tasty.
2003 Vatican Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Sixtine: Upon release, this was my favorite 2003 CDP, and I was curious to revisit it. The wine was good, still lots of fruit, I think it had lost a little of that stuffing that I remember it having.
2001 La Poderina Brunello di Montalcino Poggio Banale: This consumed the table for me. Tough to go back to the CDP, with this in my glass. Wow, what delicious aromas. Decanted for about an hour, and this wine was delicious.
2002 Donnhoff Riesling Auslese Neiderhauser Hermanshuhle: It is really hard to find flaws in wines such as this. No wonder the critics give them all great scores. This one was outstanding. The nice thing was that it really was not a dessert wine, per se, so it was a nice compliment to dessert. A half btl for 5 adults was just what the doctor ordered!
And the wines...
1996 Henriot: The irony is that I am pretty sure that I enjoyed the Schramsberg more the previous evening. This was good, and painfully young to be consumed. Very crisp and clean, I would like to revisit this in 5 years.
2004 Christian Moreau Chablis Vaudesir: This showed very well. Not my favorite vineyard from Moreau (Clos des Hospices and Valmur are generally off the hook), this wine was still pretty darn tasty.
2003 Vatican Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Sixtine: Upon release, this was my favorite 2003 CDP, and I was curious to revisit it. The wine was good, still lots of fruit, I think it had lost a little of that stuffing that I remember it having.
2001 La Poderina Brunello di Montalcino Poggio Banale: This consumed the table for me. Tough to go back to the CDP, with this in my glass. Wow, what delicious aromas. Decanted for about an hour, and this wine was delicious.
2002 Donnhoff Riesling Auslese Neiderhauser Hermanshuhle: It is really hard to find flaws in wines such as this. No wonder the critics give them all great scores. This one was outstanding. The nice thing was that it really was not a dessert wine, per se, so it was a nice compliment to dessert. A half btl for 5 adults was just what the doctor ordered!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
