Dominus Vertical, with Mr. Dominus, himself!

When you get the opportunity to sit with Christian Mouiex and taste 8 vintages of Dominus (or anything for that matter), one does not turn it down. The Bordeaux icon has been producing outstanding wines at the old Inglenook Estate (Napanook) since 1983. Despite 1991 and 1994 considered classic wines, put me in the camp that believes the wines from this famous vineyard are only getting better.

So, about 15 restauranteurs, retailers and sommeliers gathered in Manhattan yesterday morning, for the "pre release" party of 2007 Dominus with Christian. In addition to the 2007 tasting, MMD put a number of older vintages on display. I was actually the first guest to arrive, so I got to chat with Christian for a few moments. We talked mostly about 2009 Bordeaux. He, of course, was very excited. I think he has even started spending the millions he will make off of the most hyped vintage ever, as he was sporting a new tie! One of the wines in the lineup was the 1996. I had just tasted an amazing bottle of this wine a few weeks ago. I told Mr. Petrus how excited I was to try it again.

Once we all sat, we got right down to business. 1996 vs 1999 Dominus was in the glass (Actually all of the wines were poured, but this is what we were starting with). The 1996 had a slightly oxidative nose, nevertheless, it was very earthy, and the aromas were very profound. Nevertheless, the wine (which was double decanted two hours earlier) appeared to have become oxidized. It is 82% Cabernet.

The 1999 Dominus had a slightly muted nose. Tight, gripping and tannic, this wine has just never evolved into a special Dominus. The fruit is just not there. It is 75% Cabernet Sauvignon. Christian did not care for the 1999 at all, and he made a joke that it is the only Dominus that James Laube ever gave a high score to, which garnered a chuckle from the room.

Christian asked the room which wine they preferred, after he asked me to speak about the great btl of 1996 that I had drank recently. In terms of yesterday's offerings, I voted for the 1999. I was the only one. I guess restaurant people like to drink oxidized wine.

Next we move into the great 2001 vs. 2002 debate. 2001 vs. 2002 is a hotly debated topic for Napa Cabernet. The 2001 had a great bouquet. It is very structured. I found the wine a bit youngish. Christian thought that the wine was a little oxidized as well. I did disagree. 81% Cabernet. Nevertheless, the 2001 was no match for the OUTSTANDING 2002. It had the richness and balance of a great Napa Cab. 85% Cabernet in this one. This was the first Dominus that I felt had a bit a alcohol in the flavor profile, but I still loved it!

The 2002 won the vote/ Christian condeded that, at "birth," he preferred the 2001 to the 2002, while Robert Parker preferred the 2002 always. He said Parker must know his wines better than himself.

Next up is a 2004-2007 finish. 2003 was the last vintage that used Merlot in the blend. Christian does not feel that Merlot is the right grape varietal for Napa. Not to say that there is not great Merlot being produced, but he feels that some of the Merlot may not really be Merlot. Good stuff!

The 2004 Dominus would appear to be the weak link. 85% Cab and 7% Petit Verdot. Christian commented that Dominus should never go above 5% on PV. He blamed himself for producing just an average Dominus. Pleasant to drink now, but not in it for the long haul.

The biggest surprise of the tasting, for me, was the awesome 2005 Dominus. 92% Cabernet and 100% delicious, this was a very youthful wine. Great intensity, good richness, this large production Dominus is proof that you do not have to sacrifice quantity for quality. Seemless was a good descriptor here.

This runaway vote had the 2005 the winner.

It just kept getting better...2006 Dominus (91% Cabernet) is destined to be a classic Napa Cab, according to Christian, and I must concur. Christian says hit reminds him of 1986 Mouton. I cannot vouch for that, but I can say, without reservation, that the 2006 Dominus is a stunning example of what this property can produce.

Up next, the first tastes of 2007 in New York. This had a very closed down nose. In addition, it lacked the grip of the 2006. The tannins were much softer, making it easier to drink. A very intriguing wine, what really got me going on this one, was the lingering finish of wonderful cocoa like flavors in my mouth. This is pretty difficult to avoid drinking now, but I am sure it will improve over time. I am looking forward to tasting 2006 vs. 2007 in the future, but for now, I think I have to call it a tie. 2007 for drinking now and 2006 for the long haul, but I reserve the right to change my mind!